Yaounde Halli Hallo dear ones
Up Lome have you followed us last time, and since then a lot has happened. Meanwhile, we have arrived in Cameroon and spuehren the first harbingers of the rainy season. But now as always first times of the series.
in Lome, we enjoyed a few days at Chez Alice, with Swiss cuisine, fondue and rosti Burgingnon ...
Also, Nic and Ant have taken us back in Lome, but the two were a little panicked because of the rainy season and a very notorious stretch of road between Nigeria and Cameroon, where people have used anscheinen already 6 days for 80 km. They therefore wanted to continue as quickly as possible to get through before the big rain. We stayed a few days and came here and Julien Pioter, two cyclists on the west route. With them we had a fun time with a fine dinner and games, such as: soon
"who I am" Well, we noticed that if you remain long in one place, one begins to think too much. As follows: drive alone by Nigeria ... the rainy season in Cameroon ... well, at some point we had to go simply to not einzurosten and keep moving. So off we went to visit, something Togo.
On the first day we made a detour to tiny Lac Togo. Ca. 30 km east, only to return to breathe some air street. We spent a night camping on a little expensive, but for the idyllic countryside was worth all.
The next day we continued north to Mont Klouto. Not the highest mountain of Togo, but still very beautiful and above all nice and fresh in the night!
When we ramped winding road to Mont Kloutu we experienced our first unofficial roadblock. Two guys had blocked the road with a vine and demanded Wegzoll for the potholes, they have supposedly been repaired, o). Potholes heaps gabs, but none was repaired. Our mite was then two Golfbaellen that we had Robert (thanks Robert) ... and everyone was happy: o)
The first unofficial roadblock our journey
Tchova on the top of Mont Klouto
WC gabs unfortunately none o)
We spent two relaxing nights on the mountain and drove us the time to relax and Waeschewaschen. The former was difficult as little as we had for the first time since the beginning of our journey, Teaglich rain showers. So we had the clothes hung out to dry under our tarp.
After successful two day drying our clothes, we drove further north to Badou, where there are guide books to consider are a beautiful waterfall.
We had heard this in Lome, the main link between Kpalime (at Mont Klotou) and Badou in a miserable condition and that there is an alternative route through the mountains Togolese (Of course Slopes!).
We decided, just to take this track and could enjoy such a journey through picturesque landscapes. Although the first 15 km of slopes were very demanding and difficult, but after that, the road changed to a real natural highway.
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camped in Badou we even on the grounds of the only hotel and had soon the whole village school to our car around. Once again we played TV for all the children of the village o)
a little guitar lesson for one of the students helped, however, soon to break the ice and (min for about 10) some respect and privacy to win: o)
As always, if there is a tourist attraction in the vicinity of a place is found, is already on arrival (even if the path to the attraction still is several km) numerous, sometimes self-appointed guides who will show you the wonders of the environment. We decided, however, even in the 12 km Akloa (where are the falls) and drive us to take a local guide. This decision proved to be a great Glueckstreffer. In Akloa, a likely 50-100 Sehlenkaff we even found a small inn. Run by an elderly couple (without children) after the hour hike to the waterfall, we checked into the inn and spent an exciting afternoon with the hosts and staff. Told of Switzerland, showed pictures and listened to stories about Togolese traditions.
We arrived at the end to conclude that the Togolese Highlands and Switzerland are very similar: o)
are in both places there are mountains, temperatures are cool and even, in Togo there are traditional Ringkaempfe among young men (arm)! Unfortunately, we were a little too early to admire the traditional Ringkaempfe of Togo ...
Togo rocker (picture from the Internet)
cooked the evening we then for the owner of the inn, and all others who had the desire to sample a Schweizergemuesecurry. Most hats so half-way tasted others do not, o) (luckily, because we had too hungry, o))
Here are some impressions of the waterfall, so we're really driven to Akloa:
The path to the waterfall, some not so easy ...
... but worthwhile!
The next morning we packed up cozy and got ready for the onward journey. The owner of the Auberge was still drop in for a little farewell chat and what surprised us with a cash gift of approximately (converted) 100 €. Of course, we would not accept this money. But we soon realized that he was a rejection of the gift would have very offended. So we exchanged in return (real) e-mail addresses from (details to be real and unreal in the section on Nigeria) and said goodbye with a sincere promise to notify us about him and to keep our trip to date.
Next we went over so Atakpame to Kara, where we waited 3 days on the Gueltigkeitsdatum our Benin visa.
Here are some of Togo's highlights:
Togo stack art
The voodoo market in Lome
Stowaway
BENIN:
Oh woe to Benin eigenlich is little to tell. We are down to one night in Nikki, just before the Nigerian border, passed.
NIGERIA:
The most infamous country in Africa drivers! Anything else
Some keywords:
- Unofficial (created by bandits) roadblocks
- Armed Raubueberfaelle on everything that moves
- police harassment every 100 meters
- corpses on the roadside
- "only never stop!"
Well, we knew that many of these horror stories a kernel of truth included and for some regions in Nigeria certainly apply. We did, however, that the route through "central Nigeria", which we had chosen belongs to the safe. We were quite nervous but when we came to the Nigerian border post. We had already been set for hours of discussions with tax collectors and immigration officials had to say, however, crossing the frontier to one of the most pleasant of our previous Rice is: o) very friendly, helpful and proper officials. Even our laisez passer (customs document for the car) was completed twice by Zoellner, as he had stamped wrong the first copy around. Finally, he helped us a good exchange rate to be agreed with the money changer ...
We said after this experience: "A first impression" and went almost without jitters, farther east. We had planned to spend the night in a small National Park. But the runway there was so bad that we opted for a detour. Unfortunately, this detour led through one of the main roads in the country. And so we became victims of countless police checks. No fewer than 12 inspections within 50 km was our record! But each of those stops was very correct and friendly, sometimes he ended with a chat about our trip. Few officials asked ourselves: "what are you taking for Officer XXX? I'm Officer XXX "o)
with a". I bring you my friendship, my smile and a strong Haendedruck "could be put off the most.
For those who wonder how it looks a roadblock: we could not and would not take any pictures, you have to be Schicksahl's not always challenge o)
Now, imagine two empty oil drum on each side of the road before. In between, a board studded with nails (of course on the road, so that there is no chance for a drive-through) and usually a small wooden shed on one side. The control then proceeds like this: to be slow (2nd gear, about 20 km / h), the type that one waving out ever chuckling salute precaution and window crank, if not already open, down, grinning even more and take the hand thrust out as a greeting. Then, the document requested (but not too hectic yes) get fish up, and the wooden shed hike. Again, all friendly grin. Most of the office is in the shade and if electricity is available, right next to a fan. All questions about indulging friendly . Let Sometimes, again back to the car because you forgot a document.
said, the controls were often time consuming, but usually also humorous. All thought we were crazy! How to get only the idea of traveling to Africa. And in a car without air conditioning.
An air conditioner, we also wished many a time! It started to get really hot namely. The fairly pleasant 30 - 35 ° C from Togo were no more! During the day the thermometer climbed to over 40 ° C. The first
After we spent in Nigeria, therefore, from the long drive pretty geschlaucht in a hotel (room with air!) In Igboho.
Our plan for Nigeria to be as quick as possible to Abuja, the new capital was to drive. Here are all responsible for our relevant messages. And theoretically you can get all the visas for the onward journey.
So we left early in the morning and made our way towards Abuja. Actually we had planned a stop at Abuja, but as we very well on the road, we were the characteristics about 650 km in one day.
What a ride! Again several police checkpoints, pothole roads, headwind, rain and even briefly. And to make matters worse, we broke our iron intent: "At night, never, never, especially at night driving in Nigeria".
About 21.00 clock, in the dead of night, we arrived at the Sheraton Hotel in Abuja. No, we can not find a room in the most expensive hotel make Abuja o) of the parking lot behind the hotel ground is under overlanders (Africa drivers) but a popular place to stay. Here may be free and you will be tolerated. As long as one of the paying guests do not get in the way comes: o).
Our standing room at the Sheraton
...
There are over eight to romantic places around as on a concrete course of a 5 star hotel near the one hour internet about 30 CHF and a day in Swimingpool cost 20 CHF. Also the outdoor shower (the pool) where we washed ourselves in the eyes of others (either payable) visitors, in swimming trunks or bikini, made a Intiemwaesche little difficult o), we found out soon that it is before 6:00 clock in the morning undisturbed pretty ...
But what can you do ... we wanted to get as many visas as possible and so we had no choice but expensive pig in this diplomatic and Oelscheichstadt, at up to 46 ° C, between the Sheraton generators and to enter a busy main road. You have to say
however, that we had for many hotel guests and employees a large number of some attraction came to us and asked us out were very interested and friendly.
slide over false email addresses:
In our time in Nigeria, we soon found out that the people are very curious. And apparently it was fashionable to have friends in Europe. Often we were asked for our addresses, phone numbers and e-mails. And just as often we have any list with addresses, phone numbers or e-mails, kept as evidence of a contact to Europeans under the nose.
very obstinate people insisted on a contact exchange and let us first at rest, as they received a few e-mail address from us.
surely you know all the emails from Nigeria, where one is invited to his bank data and thus reveal a pile of money to win. Also in the guidebooks is often warned by electronic fraud.
For this reason we gave to most people the wrong, or ancient e-mail address.
Go to Abuja:
as mentioned earlier, Abuja the new capital of Nigeria. It was designed on the drawing board and is home to everything that has status and acquisitions. Accordingly, the expensive city (Swiss supermarket prices) is. But unfortunately we were stuck in the diplomatic, Oelmulti and rich people's town because we needed the visas for onward travel. We managed three visas, Cameroon, Angola and Congo. Angola was taking the hassle!
On the Angola embassy, we had However, a very nice experience. In the waiting room we met a friendly Nigerian, Mr. Ogbolu. He also works in Oelgeschaeft doing business and had to examine any truth in Luanda. Not welded together and we have with him about the difficulties of getting a visa Angola laments.
we finally found out that he is staying at the Shareton. a somewhat embarrassing situation arose when Flo and spontaneously said, "oh what a coincidence, we are also in Shareton." That we, however, was camping at Shareton little hard to explain, o)
Mister Ogbolu was by no means outraged, on the contrary. He was extremely interested in our trip and wanted to know everything. Finally, We drove in his company car back into Shareton and were even invited to lunch. Ala carte, as much as you eat kan Unfortunately we decided to try out the Nigerian cuisine. Except for the Huenerpfeffersuppe was all very getting used to and we ate only wehnig o (
However, we were very grateful for the food and the amazing experience to be allowed to eat during a Trans Africa in a 5 star hotel: o)
(Mister Ogbolu has our real e-mail received: o)) were
After 4 days, luckily we do not own. Piot and Julien, the two cyclists met one afternoon at the beautiful Sheraton concrete parking lot. And just a day later met a Belgian Pair (Gert and Veerle), in a Land Rover, one in Abuja. The two wanted to Cameroon, Niger and Algeria and then back to Belgium.
Gert and Veerle
Waeschewaschen
Shareton group photo (left to right: Piot, Flo, Gert, Veerle and Julien, Sarah takes the picture: o))
Abuja After 10 days we had together, the above-mentioned visas and especially sick of this town. Fortunately also Gert and Veerle had on the same day all needed visas together and we decided that notorious and worst runway (the world), to refrain from Nigeria to Cameroon under the wheels.
Even over this section of road there are some horror stories such as: 6 days for 80 km, stuck in the rainy season, flooding of the car in bottomless mud holes, etc.
We were therefore very happy to have to not to the route master alone. But more details on the mudslinging between Ekokem and Mamfe in Cameroon over the section; Gemuetlich o)
we went, after 10 days of Abuja towards Cameroon.
lunch break of our little convoy
After an overnight stay in Makurdi, we went to the Obudu Cattle Ranch. What turned out to be really worthwhile trip. The Ranch was a huge Touri and conference resort high on a mountain about 1,500 meters. One of Switzerland equal winding road led up the hill and with each meter, the temperature dropped noticeably. On the ridge we found the ranch. "Alas, our first reaction was," this looks a bit too classy for us out! "
As we marveled at the prices at the reception was pretty good atmosphere in our initial Keller. But after some explanations and stories about our trip we were on the edge of the system FREE camping.
Can you imagine that it freezes at 18 ° C so right? We had to find that this is quite possible and pulled out our sleeping bags and sweaters from the lower boxes o)
Obudu Cattle Ranch
gateway to
...
camp in the morning mist
After a cold night more beautiful left the next morning. Once we stayed still in Nigeria, in Ikom (about 50 km from the border).
Highlights Nigeria:
Nigerian staple banana art (image by Gert)
lunch break on the roadside (La Vache qui rit, sardines, Buechsenfleisch, avocado and toast English Suess, GORGEOUS)! o)
After a relatively unproblematic border we went to the infamous stretch of road between Ekokem and Mamfe. When asked about road conditions were the border guards just grinned and said, "well, the last 3 days,'s has not rained, so should you ever get through ..."
Initially, the slope in very good condition and we are determined even for a lunch break.
Wonderful sandwiches (which is beautiful by the way taken seriously)
look but not so bad off, on the contrary!
But after a few kilometers was already the first "remote" truck in the way and we slowly realized that it probably is even thicker. And it was thick!
Everything still in the green
man left note the mud hole!
Often we helped local people who are retarded or were sunk. People cope with the distance even with ordinary (hoehergelegten) car. But sometimes even they need help: o)
In the evening we had the worst part of the trail behind us and stayed overnight at the Gendarmerie of a tiny backwater villages.
The rest of the line to some degree was in good condition and arrived shortly after noon, the tar road in Mamfe.
Actually we wanted to increase our supplies and only then straight on towards the Mount Cameroon Buea. But we met in Mamfe Harm, a Holaender who has bought a motorcycle in Bamako (125 small, imitation of a Chinese brand and Honda) and with the plans to the Cape. Gert and Veerle Harm had already met in Ghana and a few hi's and Ekokem-Mamfe-road-Geschichtten we decided to stay overnight in Mamfe and the next day in the three convoys continue.
Harm ...
... and his moped
Then I went then to the third (or five of us) towards Mount Cameroun
through picturesque landscapes usually very good about trails and through small villages. The children welcomed us with more "white man, white man, give me pen!" And this art in so rehearsed, we asked ourselves whether they learn at school? O)
As we searched for a resting place for the Zmittag, it happened. Through the rain, the edge of the slope was so diluted that our dear Flo Tchova burying a short time. But with the help of Gert (and unfortunately I have to admit, a Land Rover, o)) we could hold our car very quickly. What a shame
for any Toyota driver, o)
And what have we learned? "Never drive too close to the edge of a runway, especially not during the rainy season!"
fleet went back later on with an overnight stay in Nguti and already soon we saw the foothills of Mount Cameroon.
Actually we wanted only a little rest, wash laundry and possibly access the Internet. But in the end we stayed 4 days in the Presbyterian Guestthouse Buea at the foot of the highest mountain of Cameroon (4100 m).
The only one who could bring himself to climb the mountain was Harm. and he succeeded in this incredible 2 days. The rest of us were concerned about some harm, because the rains had really started. And point 4 clock, every day, poured it for some two hours down with rain!
Again we had our sleeping bags out to look for the really cool 18 - 20 ° C endure. And twice we fled before Rain in the lounge of the guest houses.
Our camp at the foot of Mount Cameroon
breakfast
quick wrap all the rain comes!
Thank God we have a tarp
Sarah has wrapped up; o)
Harms equipment leaves something to be desired. Since he had never planned to go to camp so long and in between, he had to buy a tent in Mali. Also a Chinese product, which is (probably Belueftungszwecken) has a window in the roof o)
So completely unsuitable for rain. He was also pleased about our plans, with which we could at least keep the worst rain.
some point we had to think to the drive on, as we must in Yaounde for 2 Obtain visas. And here we are.
sitting once again in a big city firm and wait for visas, Gabon and Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC) are missing to us.
At least we have found a great place. In a Christian Guest House. The shower and the toilets are super clean and there is even WYFI!
before yesterday have Gert and leave us Veerle: o (
Aunt Gert's works in Batouri, a small village in eastern Cameroon this they want to go visit again soon and then to the north, over Niger, Algeria and Tunisia, back to Belgium
..
group photo of our little convoy (left to right. Gert, Harm, Veerle, this time with Sarah and Flo Selbstausloeser o))
So Her body, hold the ears stiff and wish us thumb for obtaining visas, especially for the Congo. Apparently, as the roads are nearly the same as Ekokem-Mamfe!
Greetings from the Rainy Cameroon
Sarah and Flo